Restricted Access
Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
A stunning route that is the entry-level E5 on this slab, but should not be underestimated.
1) 6b, 30m. Start below the tower. Move up and then left to better holds that lead to the break and gear. Delicately mantel up to the bolt. A hard sequence of moves above this eventually leads to a decent three-finger edge. Beyond this every move gets easier as you run it out to where a mantelshelf leads to the second bolt. Blowing it here requires Usain Bolt as a belayer. Move up and left onto the rainbow, then teeter right to jugs. Ascend to the groove past microwires and micro cams. Belay on the prow on the left.
2) 5b, 12m. Step right and follow the groove to the top, or take the second pitch of Released from Treatment. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Progression , slate E5's , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , ... And One For The Crow , Summer of dreams , Slate Goals , North Wales To Do List , Best Before 2025 , Lines that inspire - E5
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
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Afterburner
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)