Rockfax Description
A hard route up the slim grooves in the big blunt arete to the left of the lower section of Vestpillaren Direct. Rarely repeated.
1) N5+, 50m. Take the first pitch of Vestpillaren Direct, but follow a crack up and left to a small stance.
2) N8-, 20m. Step left and pull through the triangular roof to access the slim groove and a small stance. Hard and sustained but with good protection.
3) N7, 45m. Climb the crack to its end then step round the arete to enter a groove. Follow this and a crack into another groove. Go up this for 10m then head out right to the 3rd belay of Vestpillaren Direct. A technical pitch - plenty of small pro is needed and it is run-out in places too.
Abseil off or continue upwards. © Rockfax

FA. Frej Wichmann, Martin Fransson, Oskar Alexandersson 29.7.2014 29/Jul/2014.

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