Rockfax Description
40m. Two excellent pitches. Start at the base of the clean slab of the lower tier.
1. 18m 4c Climb the left side of the slab to a slanting overlap. Climb up under this to step right onto the nose above the overlap. Move up and make a similar move on to another nose. Finish delicately above to gain the halfway ledge.
2. 22m 5a The slab above is guarded by a steep bulge. Climb through this via a slim right-facing groove with difficulty, then go up the slab and step right to below the break in the overlap. Pull through and climb a pocketed slab to the top.
R.Campbell, 1961 © Rockfax
FA. R.Campbell, 1961 15/Jun/1961.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Highland Outcrops South *** , STAUMC Ticklist , 50 Top Scottish VS's , Lairig hitlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Remco | 28 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: With some fiddling you can get a good walnut size 6 (I think) in wide direction in the crack under the roof (in the hold). You can place a good high nut in the crux crack before committing to it while holding underclings in the small roof or any other decent hold | ||
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Show beta
βeta: With some fiddling you can get a good walnut size 6 (I think) in wide direction in the crack under the roof (in the hold). You can place a good high nut in the crux crack before committing to it while holding underclings in the small roof or any other decent hold |
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Guidebooks for Polney Crag (Craig a Barns)
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The Rut
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Polney Crag (Craig a Barns))