48m, 2 pitches.
HVS.4c, 5a/5b Start: At the foot of the rock gangway which cuts across the buttress from left to right, leading to corner below grassy ramp.
24m Follow gangway to below V-chimney, which is about 10m left of the black corner and big grassy ledge. Climb wall to foot of the chimney. Traverse left to thin flake, climb up and back right to good ledge.
24m Climb corner to ledge. Pass perched block and climb thin crack past old peg. Step left into niche and up easily to the top.
HVS.4c, 5a/5b Start: At the foot of the rock gangway which cuts across the buttress from left to right, leading to corner below grassy ramp.
24m Follow gangway to below V-chimney, which is about 10m left of the black corner and big grassy ledge. Climb wall to foot of the chimney. Traverse left to thin flake, climb up and back right to good ledge.
24m Climb corner to ledge. Pass perched block and climb thin crack past old peg. Step left into niche and up easily to the top.
H Drasdo, N Drasdo. (alt leads) 26/Aug/1956.
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Route of Interest
Wreck of Mary Deare
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Malinbeg)