UKH

Rockfax Description
A more logical start to the Little Micheluzzi that doesn't suffer from seepage as with the original.
Start in a large grassy corner midway between the normal start and the large gully on the right.
1) IV-, 25m. Climb a grassy chimney ramp easily to a good stance on a little pillar.
2) IV-, 25m. Continue up a ramp trending left, then climb direct up a vegetated chimney-crack to a grassy ledge.
3) IV, 45m. Move left for a couple of steps, then at a peg follow obvious holds right. At a vegetated clearing, move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4-8) As for pitches 4 to 8 of Little Micheluzzi. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alpenglow 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Route finding on the last pitch was challenging. I went left from the belay and up some steep juggy chimney cracks for about 5-10m. Then took a ramp line up right and then up a wall to a mini cave with 2 pitons in. Then stepped left and pulled over a bulge and went up another steep gully to the right. The cave as described as the final belay is then on the left - the last pitch was longer than described in the guidebook. For the descent, I've seen a lot of comments where people had a nightmare 10 pitch abseil down a gully. The proper descent traverses the terrace all the way left ensuring you pass a long and very exposed section protected by a wire. You almost reach the area below the 2nd Sella tower.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route finding on the last pitch was challenging. I went left from the belay and up some steep juggy chimney cracks for about 5-10m. Then took a ramp line up right and then up a wall to a mini cave with 2 pitons in. Then stepped left and pulled over a bulge and went up another steep gully to the right. The cave as described as the final belay is then on the left - the last pitch was longer than described in the guidebook. For the descent, I've seen a lot of comments where people had a nightmare 10 pitch abseil down a gully. The proper descent traverses the terrace all the way left ensuring you pass a long and very exposed section protected by a wire. You almost reach the area below the 2nd Sella tower.

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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Comici/Northwest Corner

Grade: V- ***
(Punta Col de Varda)
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