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160ft Climb Black Magic all the way past the crozzly pocket and through the crux, to the 'rest' at the old, snapped-off peg. Arrange gear (small wires and cams) and make a tricky sequence out left into the centre of the wall between Black Magic and the finish of Darkinbad. Follow an obvious line of holds up shallow cracks (small wires and cams) to arrive below the small, slightly arched roof right at the top of the lower shield of Great Wall, directly below the top pitch of Wall of Spirits. Make committing moves through the roof on slopers to a precarious finish which leads to the big shelf below the impending wall of pitch 2. Put in a runner for the second and scuttle right to the belay of Black Magic. Climbed after abseil inspection. A few wires were left in-situ on the first ascent due to poor conditions, the gear is not too hard to place however, and is more plentiful than on the crux section of Black Magic itself.

Dave Pickford (unseconded) Jun/2006.


Atlantic Coast New Routes


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Route of Interest

Booby Prize

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gull Rock - Marsland)