UKH Hills - 'Original Route'

70m, 4 pitches. P1. (20m 5a) Start 5m left of the Tyrolean and climb up and then left along horizontal breaks to reach a small ledge: at low tide, it is possible to avoid this pitch by scrambling around the back of the stack, making the route about HS overall. P2. (20m 4b) climb the steep slab above using the rightwards slanting crack to a bulge, pull over it, move left and ascend to a splendid cave belay. P3. (10m) an exposed traverse right leads past one upwards break to the base of an offwidth crack. P4. (20m 4b) Climb the crack to a large ledge and some huge blocks, then follow the easiest line which trends up and left to the top.

Tom Patey, B. Robertson, B. Henderson & P. Nunn Jun/1966.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Summer Trip 2014 , The Julia Bradbury Collection , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Ultimate Sea Stack , Pre-MIA Wishlist , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Big Ideas , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , STAUMC Ticklist , Scottish Multipitch Seacliffs (S - E2) , The Big Three , 50 Top Scottish VS's , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland , Summer 2021 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , HS-HVS adventures , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User	Date		Notes
Charlotte Whitmore	10 Aug, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Descent point is opp large boulder to get to start. P1 is a bit greasy, med/large cams useful. P3&4gear options are not as good as you’d like. Don’t cross tyrolean near high tide as you will get wet as I found out. Tryrolean rope in place on 1st august. Good condition and anchors are secure when used it- thanks to whoever left it as it saved time Used 60m ropes for a single ab. Watch out for wind as it tangled the ropes when pulling them down
Show beta βeta: Descent point is opp large boulder to get to start. P1 is a bit greasy, med/large cams useful. P3&4gear options are not as good as you’d like. Don’t cross tyrolean near high tide as you will get wet as I found out. Tryrolean rope in place on 1st august. Good condition and anchors are secure when used it- thanks to whoever left it as it saved time Used 60m ropes for a single ab. Watch out for wind as it tangled the ropes when pulling them down
Euan Todd	20 Jul, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Tyrolean in situ 18 Jul 2023. Scramble down is quite exposed and slippery in places.
Show beta βeta: Tyrolean in situ 18 Jul 2023. Scramble down is quite exposed and slippery in places.
lottiespillett	6 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: There is nesting birds on the route	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is nesting birds on the route
harry_rendell	12 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Used Tyrolean that someone had left. Got wet on the way back since it was high tide and rope stretch of tyrolean meant we dipped below water level. Tricky crux (V-chimney), could do this better on second attempt using footholds on left. Descent to base of stack is tricky, hard to see from the headland but fairly straightforward once you find it. Climbed in 4 pitches.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Used Tyrolean that someone had left. Got wet on the way back since it was high tide and rope stretch of tyrolean meant we dipped below water level. Tricky crux (V-chimney), could do this better on second attempt using footholds on left. Descent to base of stack is tricky, hard to see from the headland but fairly straightforward once you find it. Climbed in 4 pitches.
Ghost	12 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Our 50m ropes didn\'t reach the ground. The abseil is overhanging and you will need to place gear on the way down in order to reach the mid-way rebelay and it\'s rotting pegs. Best to take 60m climbing ropes instead!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Our 50m ropes didn't reach the ground. The abseil is overhanging and you will need to place gear on the way down in order to reach the mid-way rebelay and it's rotting pegs. Best to take 60m climbing ropes instead!
Ian Campbell	27 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The abseil is possible on 50m half ropes with the the stretch, but only just! Tie knots right in the end and watch for the elastic recoil. The approach descent is very exposed and a long line here is reassuring
Show beta βeta: The abseil is possible on 50m half ropes with the the stretch, but only just! Tie knots right in the end and watch for the elastic recoil. The approach descent is very exposed and a long line here is reassuring
Adamcsyou	6 Oct, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Climbed this during a break in the weather, happened to be the same day as a group of 5 were doing the same (thanks for the Tyrolean lads). Descent was wet downclimbing, walking poles are no use. First traverse pitch was really wet and felt very insecure, the rest of the climbing was a breeze after it! Stink of piss at the cave belay. Amazing top out!
Show beta βeta: Climbed this during a break in the weather, happened to be the same day as a group of 5 were doing the same (thanks for the Tyrolean lads). Descent was wet downclimbing, walking poles are no use. First traverse pitch was really wet and felt very insecure, the rest of the climbing was a breeze after it! Stink of piss at the cave belay. Amazing top out!
Donesy	16 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The in-situ Tyrolean is now down to the cores cores and probably needs replacing. Unless you plan on swimming over you should bring provisions to set up your own.
Show beta βeta: The in-situ Tyrolean is now down to the cores cores and probably needs replacing. Unless you plan on swimming over you should bring provisions to set up your own.
Jevo	15 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Tyrolean update: core exposed and frayed
Show beta βeta: Tyrolean update: core exposed and frayed
Maria - Spanny	6 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: 50m ropes in one go will not take you to the bottom as someone suggested.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 50m ropes in one go will not take you to the bottom as someone suggested.
Ewanski	8 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: 50m half ropes work for the abseil in a oner, just.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 50m half ropes work for the abseil in a oner, just.
JohnBson	12 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Loose rock below P5 belay. Little gear. Left hand side, slanting crack at start of P3 hard to protect, maybe 5a. 60m doubles enough to abseil to base, but beware strong wind may blow you away from halfway ab point. If you must hit this begin your abseil pendulum as you leave the overhanging rock above.
Show beta βeta: Loose rock below P5 belay. Little gear. Left hand side, slanting crack at start of P3 hard to protect, maybe 5a. 60m doubles enough to abseil to base, but beware strong wind may blow you away from halfway ab point. If you must hit this begin your abseil pendulum as you leave the overhanging rock above.