Rockfax Description
110m. This impressive line up the centre of the highest point of the cliff is unfortunately becoming looser by the year. It is an iconic piece of rock and if you're happy on loose ground, give it a go. Take many cams. A large platform at the foot of the route is above high-tide level. Start at the top left-hand end of the platform below a crack.
1. 25m 5b Climb the crack and short groove above. Pull over a small roof and continue up the groove above. Climb a short corner to a stance on the left.
2. 25m 5a Move up left onto a ledge, then right to a steep corner. Ascend this and pull out at the top into an easy groove on the right. Follow the groove and traverse right to a large stance.
3. 35m 5c Climb a steep crack to gain a flake-line leading up left to a corner below a big stepped roof. From the top of the flake make a fingery move out right onto the face. Climb right and up to the right-hand end of the big roof. Follow cracks up the overhanging wall, swing past the roof and pull strenuously into the leaning groove on the left. Continue to an airy stance.
4. 25m 5a From the left side of the ledge climb an awkward crack to easier climbing up a broken arête and grass which leads to the summit.
FA E.Grindley, C.Grindley, W.Jeffrey, D.N.Williams, 22 Aug 1981 © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Skye Rock , Ultimate E3 ticklist , North West Summer Road Trip , Skye Crack Mastery , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist , The Unattainable SUMC Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rhys Deane | 25 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Epic, intimidating, committing! Proper old school adventure climbing! Best route of the season. Lead pitch 1 and 3. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Epic, intimidating, committing! Proper old school adventure climbing! Best route of the season. Lead pitch 1 and 3. |
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Nathan Adam | 25 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Trundled a huge block from the big ledge below pitch 3 and probably for the best as it didn’t take much convincing. Some other loose stuff but generally the line feels sound. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Trundled a huge block from the big ledge below pitch 3 and probably for the best as it didn’t take much convincing. Some other loose stuff but generally the line feels sound. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Neist)