From the Talalpsee (1084m) take the path south to the buildings around Hummel (1559m) and around 1600m leave the path and head SW then W up towards the sizeable gully on grass and scree slopes (staying on the path to around 1700m is unlikely to gain much in time or lessen the roughness of the way).
The way is increasingly rough as the slope narrows towards the gully entrance where a short 4m rock step bars the way, climbable or by-passable on the left. Follow the gully with short scrambling sections, exercising careful route-finding judgement. In the lower part the right hand options seem best until the grassy slope on the right relents and can be followed, tracks and two or three cairns, until below a large rock step this track descends back into the gully. Here it is best to immediately cross the gully and ascend the left hand grassy/rocky slopes which are preferable, despite the exposure, due to the large amount of loose stones in the gully slightly higher up. The final slope before gaining the south ridge is reached which can be followed on the left (steep, grassy), or right hand side under the rock wall (more rocky, scrambly). The final 20m to the ridge are equipped with two cables, the first on a section of steep grass, the second on rock (UIAA II at worst).
Thereafter the ridge itself is never followed until just before the summit. At first the grass slopes on the right are followed, good track which leads back to under the ridge. The way continues steeply with some tracks, occasional small cairns and short scrambly sections until a notch on the ridge is gained. A short ledge on the left is negotiated with a little exposure but good holds on the right wall. The way quickly opens out to a section of loose and steep broken ground below the ridge. This is perhaps the most insecure part of the ascent, gaining the ridge to the left of steep rocky buttress. Scramble along the ridge with relative pleasure now, passing a ridge that joins on the right hand side (note for descent!) to a fore-summit and finally the summit itself. 1350m, 4hrs.
Given AD in the 2004 SAC guide, but the installation of the cables since then (probably?!) to ease the final passage to the ridge warrants a downgrade. In any case the consensus on hikr.org is rather T6- using the more appropriate SAC wanderskala where T6 equates to UIAA II and very exposed, steep grassy/rocky slopes (Schrofengelände).
A helmet is sensible, whereas a rope would not be suitable for competent parties in good conditions given the short sections of scrambling and the existing cables (the rope could be used in descent to abseil past the cables, however). After entering the gully at around 2000m, the 440m to the summit are full of interest and demand.
The way is increasingly rough as the slope narrows towards the gully entrance where a short 4m rock step bars the way, climbable or by-passable on the left. Follow the gully with short scrambling sections, exercising careful route-finding judgement. In the lower part the right hand options seem best until the grassy slope on the right relents and can be followed, tracks and two or three cairns, until below a large rock step this track descends back into the gully. Here it is best to immediately cross the gully and ascend the left hand grassy/rocky slopes which are preferable, despite the exposure, due to the large amount of loose stones in the gully slightly higher up. The final slope before gaining the south ridge is reached which can be followed on the left (steep, grassy), or right hand side under the rock wall (more rocky, scrambly). The final 20m to the ridge are equipped with two cables, the first on a section of steep grass, the second on rock (UIAA II at worst).
Thereafter the ridge itself is never followed until just before the summit. At first the grass slopes on the right are followed, good track which leads back to under the ridge. The way continues steeply with some tracks, occasional small cairns and short scrambly sections until a notch on the ridge is gained. A short ledge on the left is negotiated with a little exposure but good holds on the right wall. The way quickly opens out to a section of loose and steep broken ground below the ridge. This is perhaps the most insecure part of the ascent, gaining the ridge to the left of steep rocky buttress. Scramble along the ridge with relative pleasure now, passing a ridge that joins on the right hand side (note for descent!) to a fore-summit and finally the summit itself. 1350m, 4hrs.
Given AD in the 2004 SAC guide, but the installation of the cables since then (probably?!) to ease the final passage to the ridge warrants a downgrade. In any case the consensus on hikr.org is rather T6- using the more appropriate SAC wanderskala where T6 equates to UIAA II and very exposed, steep grassy/rocky slopes (Schrofengelände).
A helmet is sensible, whereas a rope would not be suitable for competent parties in good conditions given the short sections of scrambling and the existing cables (the rope could be used in descent to abseil past the cables, however). After entering the gully at around 2000m, the 440m to the summit are full of interest and demand.
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