UKH

36m.

Rockfax Description
A good route which uses the start of Eight Gauge to gain the fine crack to the left of Brazen Buttress. Climb the pillar on the front right-hand side of the through cave, then step right onto a ramp (as for Eight Gauge). Follow the ramp to a crack in the smooth wall. Climb the crack and another crack on the right until the wall blanks out above a jug. Make a tricky move up and left to easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead 25/Mar/1978.

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User Date Notes
psicobloc 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c.
Justin Shiels 3 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
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Route of Interest

Chimnastics

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mewsford Arches)
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