Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison May/1976.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , Pembroke ticket , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents