Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This magnificent route which gives entertaining climbing in a weird situation. Unfortunately the first pitch can be a bit slimy since it is buried in the through cave but the second pitch is superb. If there are birds nesting in the cave then consider doing it in one long pitch. Start beneath the left-hand of two grooves at the right-hand side of the back wall of the cave.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb to a ledge then move left onto the wall. Move up to gain a rightwards rising line which is followed to a good flake. Continue up and right (thread runner) until level with a hole on the right. Step down and gain the hole from below.
2) 5a, 20m. Pull out left then swing around the roof to gain a chimneying position above. Bridge up the outside edge above (or climb the right wall) and continue up the corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Garner May/1975.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Very good routes in the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , UK Holiday Plans , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Weird and Wonderful , Pembs '21 , Pembroke dreams , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
knighty 2 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fulmar nesting in the cave, razorbills nesting 1m left of the route above the roof. Luckily, no projectile vomit from the fulmar though! I suspect that this route should really be bird banned - and the others in the cave.
Show beta
βeta: Fulmar nesting in the cave, razorbills nesting 1m left of the route above the roof. Luckily, no projectile vomit from the fulmar though! I suspect that this route should really be bird banned - and the others in the cave.
bclifton 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fulmar currently nesting in the belay cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fulmar currently nesting in the belay cave.
JGriffiths47 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Currently a bird nesting in the belay hole
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently a bird nesting in the belay hole
Bethan May Davies 2 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nearly got wet feet and a wet rope! Had a terrible time with a Fulmar then went totally off piste trending up and right on the head wall in desperation; to choss! Made it in the end, though it was quite an experience and an exhilarating climb nonetheless.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nearly got wet feet and a wet rope! Had a terrible time with a Fulmar then went totally off piste trending up and right on the head wall in desperation; to choss! Made it in the end, though it was quite an experience and an exhilarating climb nonetheless.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seems better to do in one long pitch, as there are birds nesting in the hole and horrible hanging belay. Very atmospheric route, top pitch is fantastic, out there climbing but is only 5a!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems better to do in one long pitch, as there are birds nesting in the hole and horrible hanging belay. Very atmospheric route, top pitch is fantastic, out there climbing but is only 5a!
SteveM 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning! Sustained, pumpy and fab climbing with good pro from start to finish. The start is best experienced after a dry period, it felt like a barrel of motor oil had been spilled down it (but it had been raining beforehand).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stunning! Sustained, pumpy and fab climbing with good pro from start to finish. The start is best experienced after a dry period, it felt like a barrel of motor oil had been spilled down it (but it had been raining beforehand).
Paul Evans 11 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant - just do it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant - just do it!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brazen Buttress

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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