Rockfax Description
III, 120m. The least popular of the routes but still worthwhile and usually quiet. Most of the route is essentially dry tooling so good ice conditions are not critical.
1) 3+, 40m. Cross the bergschrund and climb 15m of easy snow to a chimney. Follow this for 5m before stepping out left and following lower angled ground to a belay beneath a series of flake systems.
2) 4+, 40m. Climb the vague chimney above and slightly left of the belay and dry tool up the crack system above to belay 15m below and right of a steep corner.
3) 6, 40m. Follow the short snow ramp above the belay for 7m then cross the slab on the left via some thin moves. Climb back onto snow and move up to the foot of the chimney. Climb this and belay above. © Rockfax
C Dumarest, P Batoux, D Jourdain 08/Dec/2002.
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Grade: ED1 6b+ ***
(Aiguille du Midi)