Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. A worthwhile day out which is relatively quiet compared to its neighbours, but suffers from stonefall in hot, dry conditions.
1) Start on the left toe of the buttress and climb 45 degree snow to reach a steeper mixed band, then follow this to reach a second snow ramp.
2) Climb the snow ramp rightwards to mixed ground where the route almost reaches the Contamine-Grisolle.
3) Stay left of that route and climb the thin, icy ramp which takes you to a final rocky ridge and junction with Contamine-Négri on the snow slope leading to the summit of the Triangle.
Follow the Contamine-Négri to the top of the Triangle.
Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax

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High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
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Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Les Droites Traverse

Grade: D- 3 ***
(Les Droites)

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