III, 215m. Lesser known than its neighbours but a very appealing and worthwhile line. It makes an excellent option when the other routes are busy. There isn't much in the way of fixed gear so take a full rack. It is possible to link some of the pitches but beware of rope drag. Be careful of rockfall in hot weather.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the slabby spur to a small ledge.
2) 5b, 55m. Climb just to the left of the spur until a large block belay is reached. This pitch can be split.
3) 5b, 35m. Traverse back rightward for a few metres before following a slabby groove system to a stance. There is a huge corner system to your right.
4) 5b, 35m. Climb blocky terrain above, before moving left and following easy ground to a stance beneath the steep wall.
5) 5c, 35m. A wide crack looms above. Thankfully you climb flakes and crack to its right. Continue more easily to a belay.
6) 5a, 45m. Follow easy ground behind the belay before traversing right up a series of slabby ribs.
7) 5b, 35m. Negotiate your way across rocky ledges (or a large snow patch) to reach the final slabby wall. Continue for short way onto a ledge.
8) 6a, 15m. Three stacked blocks stand between you and the summit. Climb up flakes and corners above the stance, before traversing into a corner beneath the leftmost flake. An airy traverse on huge holds is followed across this. Then climb and easy chimney to the summit of Point Lachenal. © Rockfax
G Margotat, P Sombardier 23/Aug/1978.
BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
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