17m.
Rockfax Description
The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The roof above the lower-off is an aid line. © Rockfax
FA. Rob Gawthorpe 1984.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Northern Rock's Little Gems , UK 8a and up
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peter Dickinson | 27 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence. |
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| Andy Farnell | 6 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did... |
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| Andy Farnell | 2 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO. |
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| marky | 14 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux. |
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| marky | 6 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left? |
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| marky | 17 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall? |
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| Andy Farnell | 23 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing. |
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Guidebooks for Malham Cove
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Route of Interest
Soft Option
Grade: 8a ***
(Kilnsey)