UKH

17m.

Rockfax Description
The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The roof above the lower-off is an aid line. © Rockfax

FA. Rob Gawthorpe 1984.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Northern Rock's Little Gems , UK 8a and up

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User Date Notes
Peter Dickinson 27 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence.
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βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence.
Andy Farnell 6 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did...
βeta?
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βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did...
Andy Farnell 2 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO.
βeta?
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βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO.
marky 14 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux.
βeta?
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βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux.
marky 6 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left?
βeta?
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βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left?
marky 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall?
βeta?
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βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall?
Andy Farnell 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing.

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Soft Option

Grade: 8a ***
(Kilnsey)

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