UKH

87m, 5 pitches. Start to the right of a boundary wall and below a small slab 4m right of a hanging holly tree.

1. 12m 3C
Climb diagonally left across easy slabs and scoops to the bottom of a wide chimney on right. Climb this and Belay above.

2. 18m 3C
Traverse around a corner on the left and then climb the wide crack on the left up to a holly tree.

3. 9m 3C
Ignore the continuation of the ledge you are on and instead make an awkward step right and up a hanging wall and over a small holly tree to gain the crest of the buttress.

4. 35m 4A
Climb at first on exposed left edge of the buttress and then move to centre with plentiful protection. Final 10m is a scramble over a wide vegetated ledge to find a belay in a recess.

5. 13m 4A
From the recess climb up diagonally left past a large flake and up past an overlap using a crack on the right side and exit onto terrace about 10m below and to the left of the large pine tree.

Grade is probably more like HS 3C,4A,4A,4B,4A
Often combined with Clingon or other routes on Main face

Joss Lynam, P Crean Mar/1949.

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star D-HS, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

Feedback

User Date Notes
Duffyrm 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Finally climbed it on my third try. Be careful of the top jamming coming round the corner to the v scoop on the second pitch. The third pitch is very physical and if you get off course on the final two pitches there is a real lack of protection. Great adventure and the walk off isn’t easy either.
Show beta
βeta: Finally climbed it on my third try. Be careful of the top jamming coming round the corner to the v scoop on the second pitch. The third pitch is very physical and if you get off course on the final two pitches there is a real lack of protection. Great adventure and the walk off isn’t easy either.

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