25m. Start as for Wraith until its first peg, then head up and slightly right until a horizontal break is reached below a shallow grooved wall. Make a series of tricky moves directly through the groove via a sloper and a collection of small edges to clip the second peg of Wraith on your left, then continue direct to finish.

Not in guide, very little (if any) new climbing.

Dale Comley 26/Sep/2020.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Macca_7 5 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Had a look at this the other day and after speaking to a few people feel these moves have almost certainly been done before. When Wraith was originally graded E5 6b I think this is the way most people did it until the easier sequence on the left became more common. It's essentially an easier sequence on the middle section of Wraith into a well protected but very difficult move to join the crimps on Two Passports... Feels a bit like a sport link up line rather than a new trad line, trying to find the path of most resistance rather than the trad way of finding the line of least resistance?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had a look at this the other day and after speaking to a few people feel these moves have almost certainly been done before. When Wraith was originally graded E5 6b I think this is the way most people did it until the easier sequence on the left became more common. It's essentially an easier sequence on the middle section of Wraith into a well protected but very difficult move to join the crimps on Two Passports... Feels a bit like a sport link up line rather than a new trad line, trying to find the path of most resistance rather than the trad way of finding the line of least resistance?

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Route of Interest
Gypsy Queen

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Tintagel Head)

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