Rockfax Description
An outstanding wall climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks. Climb the diagonal cracks until it is possible to move up the wall to another left-trending crack. Follow the crack left until below a thin crack-line that heads up back right. Climb the thin cracks, peg, to a break and another peg before finishing steeply leftwards along the break. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn 15.5.86 15/May/1986.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Very good routes in the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , World Class Britain & Ireland , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , UK Trad , South West in Extremis , Soft Touches , Cornwall , Lines that inspire - E5
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Misha | 18 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Lower off gear is gone but it’s easy enough to go to the Fay ab point, which is a lot more substantial anyway compared to the small spike above Pacemaker. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lower off gear is gone but it’s easy enough to go to the Fay ab point, which is a lot more substantial anyway compared to the small spike above Pacemaker. |
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Michael Porter | 4 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Lower off (yellow cord & maillon) installed 1/5/21 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lower off (yellow cord & maillon) installed 1/5/21 |
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Duncan Campbell | 21 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: There was an in situ sling to abseil off at the top of this. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There was an in situ sling to abseil off at the top of this. |
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Eduardo Martinez | 26 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: The pegs were in ok nic. Bring an eight foot sling and old crab so you can put round the obvious solid boss at the top and simply lower off. Saves the faff of finding a belay and then abbing | βeta? | |
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βeta: The pegs were in ok nic. Bring an eight foot sling and old crab so you can put round the obvious solid boss at the top and simply lower off. Saves the faff of finding a belay and then abbing |
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GDes | 31 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: Brilliant climbing. Not much harder than Fay, good gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant climbing. Not much harder than Fay, good gear. |
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Climber_Bill | 26 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: This is an awesome an intricate line. Some say E5 6b, some E5 6a. Personally, I think it is E5 6a as my eyes weren't too far out on stalks as I did the crux. Good gear where it is needed. Certainly harder than Fay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is an awesome an intricate line. Some say E5 6b, some E5 6a. Personally, I think it is E5 6a as my eyes weren't too far out on stalks as I did the crux. Good gear where it is needed. Certainly harder than Fay. |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Maer Cliff (aka Northcott Mouth))