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40m.

Rockfax Description
One of the Culm Coast's greatest lines - both intimidating and sustained. A good number of cams is needed. Start below the steepening corner on the left of the face.
Follow the corner past an awkward initial section to below the smooth-walled upper corner. Climb the sustained corner-crack to the small upper overhang, pull over this to reach the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Darbyshire 30.4.71 30/Apr/1971.

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, UK Classic Corners, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Trips, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
danieljames123 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Topping out hold may be a little bit loose. Moves when grabbed, though stays put as of Jun 2019. Another large bit of rock has a fair bit of give before the long straight crack, so mind that as well. Still solid and safe on the whole though.
βeta?
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βeta: Topping out hold may be a little bit loose. Moves when grabbed, though stays put as of Jun 2019. Another large bit of rock has a fair bit of give before the long straight crack, so mind that as well. Still solid and safe on the whole though.
Furzy Sleight 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: superb very long pitch - sw answer to "Great north road"
βeta?
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βeta: superb very long pitch - sw answer to "Great north road"

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 104
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Millennium Falcon

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Forest Moon Buttress)