83m, 3 pitches. A stupendous route on beautiful, immaculate granite in an unspoilt, idyllic, remote location. Visit this crag before you die!!
HVS, 4c,5a,4c. This route takes the obvious curving ramp leading up to a large overhang at the left hand side of the face, providing two excellent pitches in a very impressive situation. Start: as for Byzantium. 1.17m As for Byzantium.
2.38m From belay move up to the base of a heather filled corner on the right. Step right onto the arete and airily swing round right onto the wall to gain a good crack. Follow this up to the corner from where diagonal cracks and a narrow ramp lead with increasing difficulty across the smooth open slab. About 5m below the large overhang belay on a small ledge below a good crack.
3.28m Climb the crack above swinging left past the overhang on excellent holds. Continue up the corner crack above. Finish by the arete on the left or the awkward chimney.

D Stelfox, U MacPherson, I Rea 04/Apr/1981.


Ireland 3 Star HVS, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches, Irish MCI Multipitch Routes


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

23 users have logged this
12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Route of Interest

Shiny Cossacks

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dunmore, Culdaff)
Loading Notifications...