90m, 3 pitches.
I think this variation has been climbed before, just not logged. It takes in the best and more technical grooves to get through sunset buttress.
Pitch 1 25m. Climb the first pitch of Quick Dash Crack. This climbs the deep, vegetated groove up to the obvious chock stone on the left of the buttress, you then pull over the chock stone and mount it 'a cheval'. Climb another 5 or so metres and belay at the base of the prominent crack.
Pitch 2 15m. Climb the second pitch of SBD, which takes the prominent crack direct (crux).
Pitch 3 60m. Continue to top
Pitch 1 25m. Climb the first pitch of Quick Dash Crack. This climbs the deep, vegetated groove up to the obvious chock stone on the left of the buttress, you then pull over the chock stone and mount it 'a cheval'. Climb another 5 or so metres and belay at the base of the prominent crack.
Pitch 2 15m. Climb the second pitch of SBD, which takes the prominent crack direct (crux).
Pitch 3 60m. Continue to top
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Route of Interest
Magic Pillar
Grade: IV 5 ***
(Lochnagar)