UKH Hills - 'Black Spout Wall'

Rockfax Description
170m. This formidable route, up the entire pinnacle, climbs a crack-line to the left of a great overhung recess in the wall further up the gully.
1. 40m 5c Traverse along a ledge to a deep crack leading to a block at 15m. The bulge on the left gains a smooth dwindling groove (peg). Descend to the lip of the overhang, swing left into the scoop at the base of a ramp. The ramp and overhang above to better holds. Descend diagonally right to a ledge.
2. 30m 5c Climb the corner above and exit out left at the top to ledges.
3. 40m Climb up right on slabby shelves to gain an arête above the great overhangs. Up this to a little ridge at the top of a chimney which comes up from the right.
4. 25m 5c To the left is an 'inhospitable crack'. Above is a forked crack. Climb the long right fork to the apex of the wall.
5. 35m Climb the crest to the top.
FA D.Dinwoodie, R,Smith (2PA), 8&10 Aug 1976
FA B.Lawrie, N.Morrison (FFA), Sep 1983 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Lairig hitlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User	Date		Notes
Robertgiddy	1 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: A peg blew under body weight on the in situ belay at the top of P1, just another reminder to back up in situ kit (there are plenty options nearby). Tried to dislodge blocks on second on p4 but wasn't able to get them off, but should still be approached cautiously.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A peg blew under body weight on the in situ belay at the top of P1, just another reminder to back up in situ kit (there are plenty options nearby). Tried to dislodge blocks on second on p4 but wasn't able to get them off, but should still be approached cautiously.
CMcBain	18 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: A few dirty cracks but most of the holds are clean now. As mentioned, P4 needs some care to avoid loose stuff.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A few dirty cracks but most of the holds are clean now. As mentioned, P4 needs some care to avoid loose stuff.
seanhendo123	17 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Dangerous death blocks at top of pitch 4	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Dangerous death blocks at top of pitch 4
james1978	16 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Beware the death blocks at the top of pitch 4! A little care is all that's needed.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Beware the death blocks at the top of pitch 4! A little care is all that's needed.
ross	16 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: All brushed 15 Aug 2020, but a bit more scrubbing would not go amiss. A SPID wire brush is ideal as you're cleaning cracks rather than face holds.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: All brushed 15 Aug 2020, but a bit more scrubbing would not go amiss. A SPID wire brush is ideal as you're cleaning cracks rather than face holds.
John McKenna - Rockfax	23 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: - Wire brush would be good for pitches 3 and 4. Wouldn't be too strenuous to brush some key areas/holds. - Care on pitch 4 for some loose rock/flakes in the wide section of the right hand crack, not too difficult to bypass, but could cause a nasty surprise.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: - Wire brush would be good for pitches 3 and 4. Wouldn't be too strenuous to brush some key areas/holds. - Care on pitch 4 for some loose rock/flakes in the wide section of the right hand crack, not too difficult to bypass, but could cause a nasty surprise.
Martin McKenna - Rockfax	22 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Take a wire brush if you're going for this. It would really help on the upper pitches.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Take a wire brush if you're going for this. It would really help on the upper pitches.