450m, 11 pitches.
A slab route, homogenous at 4c/5a, with lots of runnels (cannelures), and friction climbing, on good rock except for the grassy finish. Faces E so gets the sun early.
The first bolt should be clearly visible at about 4-5m in the middle of the slab. The route is easy to follow with bolts every 4 or 5m. Most of the belays are 50m apart, so a 50m rope is a minimum.
P1: 4b - Move left at the top
P2: 4c-5a
P3: 4b-4c - Crimps and friction climbing
P4: 4c-5a - Well protected traverse
P5: 4c
P6: 4c - Large runnel in the second half
P7: 4b-4c - Move up towards the right and then straight up (grass and ledges with loose stones) - 50m
P8: 4b - Straight up and then to the to the right to a good ledge - 50m
P9: 4b - Again some grassy sections an some loose stones
P10: 3b - Straight up, keeping alongside the small wall to the right - 6 bolts
P11: 2 - Easily up rock then grass, vaguely tracked, 3 bolts. Belay possible at a small tree (large, white strap attached)
Descent 1h30:
Climb to the top of the Bouton then continue along the ridge on a faint path until you descend to a main path. Turn left, facing S into the hillside and follow the "Tour du Bouton" path past the ruins of chalet des Vorets (1538m), and continue the descent (taking the left turn at each junction), until you pass the cairn which indicated the turn off during the approach (alt. approx. 1100m). Follow the approach path back to the parking at Grangettes.
Notes:
Be careful if there are parties below (stones stuck in the runnels may be loosened after rainy episodes).
All the belays have two bolts and are chained but abseiling down is not recommended, especially if there are parties below.
Abseiling due to bad weather is only possible with a 100m or 2x 50m ropes.
12 quickdraws and one long sling, but no need for nuts or extra protection.
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