Rockfax Description
(The Instant) The right-hand line gains the large 'Cyclop's eye' at half height and then weaves up the steep ground above.
1) N7/A0, 30m. The right-facing corner. Fantastic climbing and a bit of squeezing in the top to a stance on a grass shelf.
2) N6, 30m. Continue up into the next right-facing corner. Fantastic climbing to a stance under a large corner.
3) N5-, 45m. Continue straight up a corner - some loose rock at the top. Head out left on large ledge where there may be some old abseil slings.
4) N5+, 50m. Climb up the small right-facing corner from the left edge the ledge and up to the large shelf under the eye. Head diagonally left to a small ledge at the top left edge of the eye.
5) N6-, 40m. Climb straight up to a small roof to the left. Continue up and left via a grassy left-facing corner. Follow this up to the large corner in the upper wall. Climb 20m to the right on a ledge to a stance under overhanging left-facing corner.
6) N7- 35m. Climb straight up through several steep roofs in a left-facing corner. A little loose at the top. Exit to the left at grass shelf and belay.
7) N6, 40m. Go out left and traverse along an exposed ledge below overhangs. Climb up through a chimney to a stance in a niche.
8) N6-, 35m. Climb straight up through a niche and out in the right-hand corner. Move around the edge and top out on a large flat shelf. © Rockfax
FA. Hakon Wegge, Stian Bruvoll 12.08.2023 12/Aug/2023.
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Grade: n7- ***
(Fugløya)