Rockfax Description
An excellent sustained wall pitch, with good but spaced protection. It is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start 6m left of the house-sized boulder and just right of a narrow corner above the low overhang. Make some hard moves through the low overhang to reach the diagonal break. Step left and climb the wall directly to the right end of a short left-slanting hand-ledge. Move up onto it and from its left end move up the wall past wires to a horizontal finger-crack. Finish direct to a flake belay and scramble off left. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 17/Apr/1979.
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Five b Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Pre-departure , Cornwall , Kernow , South West in Extremis , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , E1's
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NaomiGardner | 24 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: | βeta? | |
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lithos | 12 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: small cams, c3 and upto green c4. | ||
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βeta: small cams, c3 and upto green c4. |
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mes32 | 27 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Approach a bit sketchy - we rigged one ab line from large boulders near path/gearing-up area to the belay point, then linked another ab line from the belay down to the bottom. Made it safer and had the bonus of a pre-made anchor. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Approach a bit sketchy - we rigged one ab line from large boulders near path/gearing-up area to the belay point, then linked another ab line from the belay down to the bottom. Made it safer and had the bonus of a pre-made anchor. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)