35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A top-notch lead for 1918 and a great route.
1) 5a, 25m. Boulder into the groove in the centre of the face then follow the crescent slab rightwards to access a narrow chimney-crack. Struggle up this to a ledge.
2) 4b, 10m. Continue up the surprisingly awkward crack. © Rockfax

Ivor Richards, CF Holland,Dorothy Pilley 22/May/1918.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Snowdonia in Chains , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Extreme Rock! , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
jrobinson 29 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The chimney crack was indeed awkward, bridge the outside by pressing feet and bum/back onto opposing walls. Dead easy beta.
Show beta
βeta: The chimney crack was indeed awkward, bridge the outside by pressing feet and bum/back onto opposing walls. Dead easy beta.
PaulJepson 19 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If you only put gear on one rope in the chimney, you can drop a loop of the other down to your second once they're comfortably wedged and haul their pack up to the belay. Would recommend, as the moves are fairly 'full-body'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you only put gear on one rope in the chimney, you can drop a loop of the other down to your second once they're comfortably wedged and haul their pack up to the belay. Would recommend, as the moves are fairly 'full-body'.

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Votes cast 102
High 5b
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Votes cast 91
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Direct Route

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glyder Fach)

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