This route has an atmospheric start up the initial gully staircase, although the better section is the upper wall. Start in the damp confines of the gully to the right of the slabs below some intimidating rock formations on the right wall.
1) Climb the gully (nearly always damp) to where it opens out, then go up to a more defined grassy terrace and traverse left to below another buttress.
2) Go up towards a large spike at about 12m and then start following a line of weakness up and right. Where the angle of the rock eases, aim for the tower with a steep wall of striated cracks on the left above a stepped rampline leading up below the steep wall.
3) From the base of the steep striated wall, go up the stepped rampline. Here you may want to go direct up the corner, but is often too hard. Instead step around the rib on the right before heading up and left to a grassy terrace.
4) Move left along the terrace to where the way ahead is blocked by a series of small rock steps and scramble over these to a grassy knoll/shoulder about 30m above Cwm Cneifion.
Descent or continuation - Continue up Senior's Ridge or Cneifion Arete. You can also walk off down from Cwm Cneifion. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Begin to the right of the main slabs up the overhung black gully. A stream nearly always runs down this. Climb up using small ledges as footholds and step left at a jammed boulder. Continue to emerge on open ground. Walk up aiming for some vaguely orange rocks just left of a vegetated gully. Pick any line and scramble up. Terraces allow lateral movement to avoid difficulties but some steps are tricky and exposed. Keep scrambling to come out on Seniors' Ridge.
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