Rockfax Description
This route has an atmospheric start up the initial gully staircase, although the better section is the upper wall. Start in the damp confines of the gully to the right of the slabs below some intimidating rock formations on the right wall.
1) Climb the gully (nearly always damp) to where it opens out, then go up to a more defined grassy terrace and traverse left to below another buttress.
2) Go up towards a large spike at about 12m and then start following a line of weakness up and right. Where the angle of the rock eases, aim for the tower with a steep wall of striated cracks on the left above a stepped rampline leading up below the steep wall.
3) From the base of the steep striated wall, go up the stepped rampline. Here you may want to go direct up the corner, but is often too hard. Instead step around the rib on the right before heading up and left to a grassy terrace.
4) Move left along the terrace to where the way ahead is blocked by a series of small rock steps and scramble over these to a grassy knoll/shoulder about 30m above Cwm Cneifion.
Descent or continuation - Continue up Senior's Ridge or Cneifion Arete. You can also walk off down from Cwm Cneifion. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Begin to the right of the main slabs up the overhung black gully. A stream nearly always runs down this. Climb up using small ledges as footholds and step left at a jammed boulder. Continue to emerge on open ground. Walk up aiming for some vaguely orange rocks just left of a vegetated gully. Pick any line and scramble up. Terraces allow lateral movement to avoid difficulties but some steps are tricky and exposed. Keep scrambling to come out on Seniors' Ridge.


Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles


User Date Notes
Caraeg 11 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: With PYB, first up northwest face and then idwal continuation
Show beta
βeta: With PYB, first up northwest face and then idwal continuation

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal)

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High 3S
Mid 3S
Low 3S
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Main Gully Ridge

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Glyder Fach)
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