Another long-time classic with the sheen to prove how well loved it has been. The first pitch is hideous in anything but dry conditions.
1) 38m. Climb the slippery scoop and at its top exit right. Quartz spangled rock leads left then right to a terrace.
2) 26m. Climb the groove and slab to more quartzy rock. Up this leftwards to a stance.
3) 16m. Climb the groove rightwards up the white highway to a stance in a corner.
4) 30m. Skip up the corner, which can be quite tricky in the wet. Wander up to the quartz region and continue on to belay on the ledges above the slabs. Added points for finding the heart belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious slab right of the Ordinary Route. The very slippery start can be avoided by the corner on the right or the wall on the left before coming back on route. Continue more or less straight upwards in 3, 4 or 5 pitches as desired following the quartz and avoiding straying left to the Ordinary Route or right onto Hope
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