UKH

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Huckford Quarry is a designated nature reserve, with important plants and nesting birds (such as peregrines) on the main cliff. There is a small wall suitable for bouldering at the quarry entrance but do not climb on the walls in the back of the quarry. 1 route has been done here (Lost Worlds, e4 6b, O.Keynes) on a clean impressive arete at the back right of the quarry - very good but repeaters should take care not to disturb nesting peregrines.

 

Be respectful of the nature here. Keep group size small, noise down (NO STEREOS!!), dog on lead at all times, and clean chalk off when you leave.

5m. An orange highball wall further into the quarry on the right. Climb direct up the obvious righthand groove from a sit-start (using horizontal rail and low rh sidepull), veering left to a good hold. Can jump safely once the good holds are reached at 3/4 height or continue to top and abseil/scramble back down)

O.Keynes 08/Jun/2020.

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Guidebooks for Huckford Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Esoteric Bouldering In The Bristol Region Cover
Esoteric Bouldering In The Bristol Region (2021)
Great Western Rock
By Mark Davies
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Route of Interest
Castle Crimps

Grade: f6C ***
(Castle Park)

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