From Braunwald (1256m) the cable car (gondola) to Gumen (1900m) is a sensible option for most. Then the path to Butzi, pt. 2148m and almost to Erigsmatt (2081m). Otherwise from Braunwald over Bärentritt to pt. 2010m and then towards Erigsmatt, skirting the Flätstock.
From just east of Erigsmatt pick your own (increasingly tedious) way south up the grass and scree fields of the north-west face of Flätstock, missing the summit to the south to gain the ridge towards Höch Turm. Stay on the ridge all the way, overcoming minor obstacles, until right under the north-west wall.
Two different bands separated by a blank wall make rising (the first more so) traverses across the wall to the west ridge. The first (left most) band has a vertical then horizontal fixed rope for the first part (II, exposed), and more bolts at c.15m intervals thereafter on the easier upper ramp (scramble / I, exposed), 120m in total to gain the ridge. The rock is not 100% reliable and has some seepage in the upper part. The second ramp is reported as harder, is shorter and gains the ridge lower down.
A third ramp further right should not be taken. The below link from the excellent Hikr website shows the ramps, courtesy of the prodigious 3614adrian:
https://www.hikr.org/gallery/photo23591.html?post_id=3771#1
Follow the west ridge for 100m to the summit (scramble / I, no bolts). 4 hours from Gumen is not unreasonable, 8km and 1000m ascent total.
The guidebook and accepted grade of AD may seem excessive, for such a climb with a relatively short length of technical difficulty, for those familiar with longer Alpine routes. Nevertheless it is common grading practice for the area, and the rock climbing difficulties are as given above.
August 2019. (update with link Sept. 21)
From just east of Erigsmatt pick your own (increasingly tedious) way south up the grass and scree fields of the north-west face of Flätstock, missing the summit to the south to gain the ridge towards Höch Turm. Stay on the ridge all the way, overcoming minor obstacles, until right under the north-west wall.
Two different bands separated by a blank wall make rising (the first more so) traverses across the wall to the west ridge. The first (left most) band has a vertical then horizontal fixed rope for the first part (II, exposed), and more bolts at c.15m intervals thereafter on the easier upper ramp (scramble / I, exposed), 120m in total to gain the ridge. The rock is not 100% reliable and has some seepage in the upper part. The second ramp is reported as harder, is shorter and gains the ridge lower down.
A third ramp further right should not be taken. The below link from the excellent Hikr website shows the ramps, courtesy of the prodigious 3614adrian:
https://www.hikr.org/gallery/photo23591.html?post_id=3771#1
Follow the west ridge for 100m to the summit (scramble / I, no bolts). 4 hours from Gumen is not unreasonable, 8km and 1000m ascent total.
The guidebook and accepted grade of AD may seem excessive, for such a climb with a relatively short length of technical difficulty, for those familiar with longer Alpine routes. Nevertheless it is common grading practice for the area, and the rock climbing difficulties are as given above.
August 2019. (update with link Sept. 21)
J. J. Schiesser, H. Wichser 23/Jun/1878.
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