Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
Outstanding face climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. Start just below the ledge of Original Route, below a short, capped groove up and right. Enter the groove (good low wire, peg) and climb it past two pegs to the top. Pull out right (wire) then back left to the rest on Flaky Wall. Follow this past its tricky bit and continue in a direct line up the pocketed wall to an exciting finish onto the ledge. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Fawcett, Geoff Birtles, Al Evans 1976. Curiously graded 6c when it was first done. 24/Oct/1976.
Ticklists
Top five E5s , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , The High Tor Top Ten , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Four years of university hit list , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , 50 E5s at 50 , Best Before 2025 , Will's Whippers
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CLH387 | 17 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: I think the 6c tech grade was a bit tongue in cheek. 5c+ in Recent Developments which equates to 6a/6a+. Bottom groove is the technical crux as the top wall is barely 6a | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I think the 6c tech grade was a bit tongue in cheek. 5c+ in Recent Developments which equates to 6a/6a+. Bottom groove is the technical crux as the top wall is barely 6a |
||||
| Big Ron1 | 27 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I never graded it 6c, it was Geoff Bottles looking for a headline on the cover of Crags 4. Please get your facts right. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I never graded it 6c, it was Geoff Bottles looking for a headline on the cover of Crags 4. Please get your facts right. |
||||
| Adam Lincoln | 31 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned jug at end of run out today. 31st May 2007 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned jug at end of run out today. 31st May 2007 |
||||
| petesdavies | 25 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Jug at end of run out cleaned aug 06 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Jug at end of run out cleaned aug 06 |
||||
| phatlad | 27 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big High rise john, moanin about a bit of grass. Awesome 4 * route, best in the Peak | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Big High rise john, moanin about a bit of grass. Awesome 4 * route, best in the Peak |
||||
| Boy | 10 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Oh and the 'jug' at the end of the runout is full with soil and grass extending the length of the tricky section. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Oh and the 'jug' at the end of the runout is full with soil and grass extending the length of the tricky section. |
||||
| Boy | 10 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The sideways nut placement mentioned is all but blown out now, however there are still good placements a few feet lower. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The sideways nut placement mentioned is all but blown out now, however there are still good placements a few feet lower. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Ceramic Extension
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)