Rockfax Description
A fantastic voyage crossing the entire cove from right-to-left at roughly half height. Make sure you choose a long summer day since you will need plenty of time to complete the trip. Rockfall has affected pitch 3. Use the Cliff-Top Quarry Approach.
1) 6a, 27m. Traverse the break past a corner. Continue along a shelf in the faultline until a drop down, and hand traverse, lead to a good stance on the lip of the cave. Peg and cam belay.
2) 6a, 15m. Traverse easily until squeezed by steep rock, forcing a strenuous link (2 threads and a peg) to a superb stance on a perched slab in the centre of the cove. Peg, thread and nut belay.
3) 5c, 10m. Continue left with a tricky move to gain a slab. Follow this more easily to belay at its end. Nut and cam belay. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Mike Robertson 25/Aug/1996.
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lulworth)