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12m.

Rockfax Description
Weird and wonderful flowstone. A nice route with technical moves on small crimps. The direct start is called One More Cheese Sarnie and goes at 6c. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Oct/1990.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Swanage, Hedbury In a Day, Hedbury Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
danrob23 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The middle section feels harder than a 6a+. Really rewarding when you get it.
 
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βeta: The middle section feels harder than a 6a+. Really rewarding when you get it.
simonzxr 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is a good 6C with one hard rockover using the two crimps to gain the flake....better than the non direct in my opinion
βeta?
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βeta: The direct start is a good 6C with one hard rockover using the two crimps to gain the flake....better than the non direct in my opinion
Alex More 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Another contender for best 6a in Swanage, the rock fall at start has not changed the grade, just made the beginning a bit more interesting
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βeta: Another contender for best 6a in Swanage, the rock fall at start has not changed the grade, just made the beginning a bit more interesting
McBirdy 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The direct start is hard for 6c - not sure if all the holds are still there? Felt more like 7a+ to me. Rocking over onto the slab is non-trivial... The conventional start is lovely - nice holds, great climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: The direct start is hard for 6c - not sure if all the holds are still there? Felt more like 7a+ to me. Rocking over onto the slab is non-trivial... The conventional start is lovely - nice holds, great climbing.
bobn 10 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A large section of the low overhang below the first bolt and between the direct start to Moves for the masses and Bad day has collapsed. Having never attempted the direct start, not sure if it affects the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A large section of the low overhang below the first bolt and between the direct start to Moves for the masses and Bad day has collapsed. Having never attempted the direct start, not sure if it affects the climb.
Marq 11 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route with technical moves on small crimps.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route with technical moves on small crimps.

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)