Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A simply wonderful route, with some exposed terrain in space-walking territory. Start at the base of the abseil.
1) 5a, 15m. Climb the steep juggy corner to reach a good ledge below the steeper crag above.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up and right along some diagonal bands of rock. After 6m, move up to a steep wall and climb this, trending rightwards on good holds, to reach the lip of the roof/arete, where you can rock onto a small perch on a pleasant slab. Traverse right along the slab to a corner. Down climb this and then step right again to reach the belay.
3) 5c, 24m. From the belay, follow the cracks that lead up and right across the wall to a bulging overlap. Move left over this and carry on rightwards in the same direction as before up a groove to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Very good routes in the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Gogarth life list , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 18 May Show βeta
βeta: Belay block with in situ yet around it is rocking - wouldn’t fancy belaying on that. Better to belay directly below the downclimb as others have said. Save a small silver cam / yellow totem and a number 5 nut for this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay block with in situ yet around it is rocking - wouldn’t fancy belaying on that. Better to belay directly below the downclimb as others have said. Save a small silver cam / yellow totem and a number 5 nut for this.
islandlynx 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ab from the big block at the top of the shallow open grove, ~15 metres past the block with the big rusty spike. From the base of this traverse right (looking in) for about 10 metres. To identify the route look for a ledge at 10-15m, there are no possible ledges further right. there are actually 2 ledges for p1 belay, higher one is better. P2 often has chalk on but follows the groove trending up and right. Belay on/at the bottom of 2-3 metre downclimb. Fine after 2019 rockfall other than p2 belay ledge missing.
Show beta
βeta: Ab from the big block at the top of the shallow open grove, ~15 metres past the block with the big rusty spike. From the base of this traverse right (looking in) for about 10 metres. To identify the route look for a ledge at 10-15m, there are no possible ledges further right. there are actually 2 ledges for p1 belay, higher one is better. P2 often has chalk on but follows the groove trending up and right. Belay on/at the bottom of 2-3 metre downclimb. Fine after 2019 rockfall other than p2 belay ledge missing.
Dom Mackenzie 29 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with other comments that belaying directly below the downclimb on p2 makes sense now the ledge is gone.
Show beta
βeta: Agree with other comments that belaying directly below the downclimb on p2 makes sense now the ledge is gone.
joeramsay 25 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe best to belay at the bottom of the downclimb now that the ledge at the end of p2 is gone - you can take a hanging belay at the old stance on decent wires but it's a pain and the in-situ thread is around a slightly wobbly block
Show beta
βeta: Maybe best to belay at the bottom of the downclimb now that the ledge at the end of p2 is gone - you can take a hanging belay at the old stance on decent wires but it's a pain and the in-situ thread is around a slightly wobbly block
harry_lewis 28 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A significant chunk of the belay ledge at the end of the crux pitch has disappeared. Still definitely climbable but worth excercising some caution
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A significant chunk of the belay ledge at the end of the crux pitch has disappeared. Still definitely climbable but worth excercising some caution
Misha 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I think it’s best to ab in from a block (backed up by another block) 10-20m further away from Elin’s tower than the block with the rusty old spike in it. This goes down the line of The Savage and you can then do the first pitch (which is easily 5a rather than 4c) straight away by belaying on the ab rope (rock gear available as well). Otherwise you have to traverse round on grassy ledges.
Show beta
βeta: I think it’s best to ab in from a block (backed up by another block) 10-20m further away from Elin’s tower than the block with the rusty old spike in it. This goes down the line of The Savage and you can then do the first pitch (which is easily 5a rather than 4c) straight away by belaying on the ab rope (rock gear available as well). Otherwise you have to traverse round on grassy ledges.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 79
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wonderwall

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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