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128m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the most amazing routes at Gogarth. The climbing is involved, adventurous but never desperate, and the geology is simply marvellous. Start at the base of the zawn at the left-hand side of a cave.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb to the top of the groove, place a high wire, move back down and step out onto the wall. Now trend up and right against the grain of the rock to eventually arrive at a slab. Follow this across right to a stance.
2) 5a, 45m. Climb up onto the wall and traverse right to a diagonal line. Move up this and then round a fin of rock on the right to enter the next groove. Follow this up to where it turns into a long narrow slab, and continue to a thread belay at its top, below a steep tower.
3) 5a, 30m. An exciting finale! Move right into a niche, and gain a crack on the right, follow this up with difficulty to where it kinks left to a corner. Follow the corner up to where the angle eases. Climb easy ground up right and then back left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
In the definitive guide the first and second pitch's are both given 5b, which I would agree with. Take plenty of slings.


Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Top 5 E2's in the UK?, The Road to Shibboleth, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Rock 2020, 30 For My 30s, Hard Rock, The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship., Hard Rock & Other Classics


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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 78
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest


Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)