UKH

Rockfax Description
The first pitch is long and sustained and the top pitch features a mind-blowing step up to a hanging flake. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay, as for Red Wall.
1) 5c, 50m. Move left to the shallow right-facing corner and climb this to a ledge on the left at about 6m. Move up slightly and traverse left to the base of a V-groove. Climb this to a small perch at its top. Make a move left and then climb the sustained wall to a large flake and peg. Head up past a couple of thinner ledges to where a line leads leftwards into Wendigo. From the large pockets on Wendigo, head up and belay on the first sloping ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. From the belay head out right on large wafer-thin jugs, that appear similar in strength to porcelain, until you are just below and left of a large downwards pointing flake/spike. Make a committing move to gain the undercut, and scuttle quickly rightwards to a sandy ledge. Follow the diagonal crack up right to a perch on the arete before moving up to a sloping ledge on the left. Make a tricky move up left to a hanging groove and follow it to a ledge. Head to the top on very poor rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
***TAKE CARE with the flake on pitch 1 mentioned in the route description, there has been recent reports that it is loose/moves.

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems, North Wales Rock Graded List

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User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Wild place! Never fails to satisfy. Care required at the top of pitch 2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wild place! Never fails to satisfy. Care required at the top of pitch 2.

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Route of Interest

The Big Groove

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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