Rockfax Description
A fine route with an excellent but tiring main pitch up the red wall. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.
1) 5a, 45m. As for Mousetrap.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow Mousetrap to where it heads left up a ramp/slab. Move up and right to a sloping ledge and belay.
3) 6a, 30m. From the right side of the ledge, go right then up on awkward holds to gain a shallow left-facing corner and overhang above. Strenuously pull onto the smooth wall above and continue up heading for the stance on Mantrap.
4) 5b, 21m. Climb above the belay then move left to a slight right-facing corner. Climb this and the wall above. © Rockfax
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Rhoscolyn)