UKH

Rockfax Description
A stunning climb for the grade. Its needs a long dry spell for the initial crack to not be damp. A late-afternoon ascent will often allow the sun to help with this. Start below a large flake/chimney, where you will undoubtedly start to feel the terror associated with this route, especially if you don't have any very large cams (size 5s are handy).
1) 5c, 45m. Thrutch up the start of the chimney until you are forced into a rather alarming layback sequence, from here it is a race against time to get established above the wide and committing crack. Bridge up the groove above with much relief until you are level with a line of jugs. Swing rightwards on these (easy but little in the way of gear) to a belay on the slab.
2) 5b, 35m. Move up and right from the belay, and try and find the easiest way through the bulge onto the slab above - this involves a bold sequence that requires a steady head. Move up and left across the slab to a small ledge near its apex, below the overhang. Move down and left and make an exciting, but ultimately easy step across a groove. Move up and left to a good belay in the corner.
3) 4c, 40m. Move up to join the last pitch of Dream... and follow this left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
July 2018: The flake at the start of the route has collapsed. Not sure if the route has been climbed since or what new grade is.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Wide Cracks, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Thrutch and Clutch, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK road to wide crack mastery, Caelan visits, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

156 users have logged this
90 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Blue Remembered Hills

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)
Loading Notifications...