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Rockfax Description
Another great route, that takes the quartz band that looks like a lightning bolt frozen in geology. Start by abseiling to the belay on the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 40m. Move left to join the start of the quartz streak. Follow this, passing a few tricky moves, to where the streak turns into a crack, and follow this to broken easier ground and a small groove 6m right of the Dream... belay. You can move left to belay as for Dream... if you plan to finish up that.
2) 5b, 28m. Head up the small chimney/groove and pass through Dream... and move up and right into the top of a small leftward-trending groove. Continue on in the same direction to a longer groove line right of a smooth slab. Just below the top, move right to gain an exit crack leading to the final ledge of Wen. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts), Big Boy Pants, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship., Jonesy's leg day ticklist, Gogarth life list

Feedback

User Date Notes
Owen W-G 2 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch should read: continue up the chimney directly until the first overlap, cross it rightwards and back leftwards above to the belay ledge. Simples.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch should read: continue up the chimney directly until the first overlap, cross it rightwards and back leftwards above to the belay ledge. Simples.

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High E3
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High E2
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
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Votes cast 94
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 86
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mousetrap

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)