90m, 4 pitches. 1. (6a) Climb the corner left of the Positron/Eraserhead wall. As the wall steepens, trend a little left and then back right onto a sloping shelf below a bulge. Traverse right using sidepulls to jug, and good gear. Ignoring the crack which continues up and left (ET P1), step right again spanning across to the obvious large flake. Make powerful, but balancey, moves towards a jug on the arete. Gain the jug and pull round into Positron and climb over the roof above to belay as for Positron P1.
2. (6b) Pull through the crux of Positron pitch 2 into the groove of Alien. Teeter immediately left across the undercut roof until you reach a peg and good gear. Make powerful moves off undercuts up and right into the flake. Layback this until it runs out and make a big move onto a flat hold. Pull on further flat holds into P3 of Positron. Climb left through 2m the crux of Positron P3, then head straight up the crack to the bucket seat belay.
3. (5a) Climb the crack to the top of the pillar right of the belay. Step left and scramble up seagrass rock to the base of the black wall on the exit pitch of Dinosaur.
4. (5c) Follow Dinosaur's final pitch to the heather.

Andy Pollitt 12/May/1984.


North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer. , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime


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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Free Stone Henge

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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