105m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good strenuous line. Start 15m right of the Big Groove, at the base of a short crack.
1) 6a, 35m. Climb the crack strenuously to a sloping ledge at 13m. Go left and up into a continuation groove/arete. This leads to another groove on the right, which is followed to ledges. Move right along these and go up a short wall to belay at the right-hand end of the large sloping ledge.
2) 6a, 35m. Climb the corner, then break out left onto the steep wall via a slanting crack. A big move gains the left arete. The holds soon improve as a traverse back right is made to a sloping ledge. Belay on the left at a thread in a crack.
3) 5a, 28m. Climb the groove on the right and the wall above to reach ledges and the diagonal line of Cordon Bleau.
4) 5b, 15m. Finish up the pillar to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Essentially, an excellent direct on Graduation Ceremony with 2 brilliant pitches. P1 ~ 6a Climb the steep crack right of Tet Offensive (just left of G.C.) with some urgency. Traverse left then follow the steep, easier continuation grooves of Graduation Ceremony. Trend rightwards across easier ground and ascend a juggy corner arriving at the right side of the sloping Big Groove ledge to belay. P2 ~ 6a/b Follow Graduation for 4m then trend steeply leftwards following a diagonal crack (good large cam). Hard, committing moves to the arete & "thank god" holds, then head back right on good holds moving up to a good ledge and belay on numerous threads. P3 ~ 5c Climb the groove on the left or alternatively direct on pockets for 5 m traversing left into the continuation groove. Follow the groove steeply using some large suspect flakes to a further sloping belay ledge. P4 ~ the usual easy ramble follows.

J.Moran, P.Williams 1979.


Main Cliff Big E5s , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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