UKH Hills - 'Peepshow'

98m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Pentathol and Big Groove - p.359. This section can be badly affected by swell from the ferry so low tide is recommended.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the narrow and then wide crack on the left. Belay at the base of the wide chimney/crack on P2 of Pentathol - often some feisty nesting birds here.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the chimney and move right onto the wall. Climb the wall aiming for the crack above which leads to the belay on a spike on Jaborandi.
3) 5b, 18m. As for the top of Jaborandi P2.
4) 4b, 15m. As for Jaborandi P3. © Rockfax

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User	Date		Notes
Mike D	28 Aug, 2017	Show βeta βeta: Worth noting there are currently inconsistencies over the line/grade of P1 (in GU Gogarth North guide vs. GU's Main Cliff poster vs. the online wiki) - somewhere between E1 and E2/3. Would recommend following the line as described in the GU guide (taking the left hand vertical crack directly below the “red rock overlap”) but consider it E2/3 not E1. Good though. Also, the belay at top of P1 which is at the first “old slings over a large spike” that you come to - much better to continue up the crack above (the 5a part of P2) for 5m and belay at a better spike stance that's hard to see from below.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Worth noting there are currently inconsistencies over the line/grade of P1 (in GU Gogarth North guide vs. GU's Main Cliff poster vs. the online wiki) - somewhere between E1 and E2/3. Would recommend following the line as described in the GU guide (taking the left hand vertical crack directly below the “red rock overlap”) but consider it E2/3 not E1. Good though. Also, the belay at top of P1 which is at the first “old slings over a large spike” that you come to - much better to continue up the crack above (the 5a part of P2) for 5m and belay at a better spike stance that's hard to see from below.