One of the top E5s in the UK. The pristine lower white wall has a thread which helps with route finding.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground. Belay on Main Wall.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb up then make a committing and exposed traverse right, aiming for a corner. Climb this to a ledge.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb cracks above the belay then step left to grooves which lead to the top. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Main Cliff Big E5s , Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , North Wales E5s
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