UKH

37m.

Rockfax Description
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route has been climbed without a crucial peg although this has now been replaced.
1) 6b, 38m. Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack-line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The crucial peg was replaced in 2019. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Four years of university hit list, Post Quarantine Blowout

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 30 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Originally did it on sight in the early 90’s with Cooksey, the peg was tied off with troll rainbow tat, happy to flash it again today. Superb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Originally did it on sight in the early 90’s with Cooksey, the peg was tied off with troll rainbow tat, happy to flash it again today. Superb
Alex Mason 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
Alex Mason 10 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower-off in place, probs 2018/19.

Logged Ascents

47 users have logged this
13 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Cad

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
Loading Notifications...