UKH Hills - 'Queer Lodgings'

10m. The face to the right of the chimney (Galadriel's Gash) gives some good climbing protected by small wires and with only a little suspect rock near the start. Bridge/layback up the short corner on the right, then swing left to gain a foot ledge. Move up the small slab to gain holds high on the right. Rock up leftwards onto an obvious foothold on the steeper headwall, stretching left to gain a hidden finger slot. Finish straight up to block/thread belays. Alternatively climb the groove and crack on the right to finish (easier, probably HVS 5a but still good). Descend by scrambling right and dropping down an easy gully.

M.S.Davies/B Mullan (both led) 15/Mar/2012.