Rockfax Description
A neat excursion spiralling up the left-hand side of the face. The route has long been popular with beginners. It is described with the Spiral Variant which avoids the tricky slab on the direct version of P2 and 3. Start just left of the block of The Capstan, below a broken rib.
1) 12m. Up the rib then move across left to a stance below a chimney with twin 'horns'.
2) 8m. Gain the chimney on the left awkwardly then up and exit leftwards to a stance.
3) 8m. Climb to a ledge then up the tricky crack on the right to a belay.
4) 12m. Move right 3m to a slab and up to the jammed flake of the Arch and a junction with the The Direct Route just before its famous hand traverse.
5) 14m. Up the groove on the left on huge flakes to a leftwards exit to an airy stance.
6) 14m. Finish up the rib to reach the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch

FA. K.Ward, H.Gibson 1907 15/Jun/1907.


Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Long Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist


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High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
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High HD
Mid HD
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Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress

Grade: VD ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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