A good route taking a great line up the cracked right-hand face of the grand pillar. Start 3m right of the large Capstan block.
1) 20m. Climb the rib and crack to belay just below the overhangs.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb over the small roof and up the groove (crux) then move left onto the rib and left again to access the crack. Follow this past a small ledge, move right and take the slanting groove to The Veranda. You can finish up Direct Route here or follow The Left-Hand Crack as described below.
3) 8m. Move left along the ledge until below twin cracks.
4) 5a, 15m. Take the initial crack to where it splits then follow the left-hand one to the top. © Rockfax
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