The easiest route up Glyder Fach's main buttress, although its confined nature makes it more popular as a descent for experienced scramblers. It is often used after the difficult sections of The Chasm Face, Main Gully Ridge and East Gully Ridge enabling you to climb a couple of routes in a day. Start by walking up to the left of the prominent triangle of the Alphabet Slab to below the main gully. Start up main gully and, before it gets steep, go right along a terrace across the top of the Alphabet Slab all the way to East Gully.
1) Take the easiest route direct up the East Gully. Towards the top of this initial gully section move to the right of the capping stone to gain the scree above it.
2) Head up the left side of the scree until near its top where you can cut left across the hillside along a vague terrace above Main Gully. Go on to a rock rib that extends up out of The Chasm Face buttress.
3) Follow the rocky rib relatively easily. Eventually this loses its definition and you can just scramble easily direct up the hill to reach the summit plateau of Glyder Fach. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The upper section of East Gully that misses off the Severe bottom section. Route 35 in the new third edition of Scrambles in the Snowdonia by Steve Ashton. Most commonly done in descent.
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