Rockfax Description
Dolmen Ridge is the final part of the Glyder Fach trilogy and is one of the most sought after scrambles in North Wales. The crux is exposed and on immaculate rock but its seriousness has given the route an air of notoriety.
Approach - Go right underneath Alphabet Slabs. Continue along the base of the crag passing below East Gully and past West Gully. This defines the right edge of The Dolmen Buttress, where a Quartz band arcs across the lower wall.
1) From below the quartz band, scramble up to the right side of the gully, heading diagonally rightwards away from the gully on well-travelled ground. After 20m or so, start to zig back up and left to reach the rib of the gully.
2) Ascend the stepped ribs to easier ground and trend right before heading up to a grass/scree bay just above a narrowing of the gully. From here you should be able to see where the route traverses left along a rampline to reach the crest of the Dolmen Buttress.
3) Traverse out left from the gully along a rampline to gain the left arete of Dolmen Buttress almost half-way up it by some small spikes.
4) The next section is one of the hardest and most sustained in this guide but the rock is immaculate. The line follows a well-travelled slabby groove to the top edge of the buttress.
5) From here, go up the ridge past the Dolmen (a rock balanced on others like a burial cairn). Carry on up following your nose as the terrain is generally easier clambering over boulders. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mostly a grade 2 scramble

Ticklists

Top ridge scrambles of Britain , Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles , Snowdonia *** Scrambles

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lorenzone 29 Apr Show βeta
βeta: One of the large loose flakes on the crux chimney has come away, leaving a beige scar. The flake was still there in mid February. Wonder if the storm in early April blew it off as the heavy outdoor table at our climbing hut was blown over and damaged...
βeta?
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βeta: One of the large loose flakes on the crux chimney has come away, leaving a beige scar. The flake was still there in mid February. Wonder if the storm in early April blew it off as the heavy outdoor table at our climbing hut was blown over and damaged...
jrobinson 13 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The crux corner-terrace pitch has many loose and incredibly hollow blocks on the left hand side, as visible by the rock scar. So don't yard or use them for gear, they're ready to go and were the cause of a fatality last year.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux corner-terrace pitch has many loose and incredibly hollow blocks on the left hand side, as visible by the rock scar. So don't yard or use them for gear, they're ready to go and were the cause of a fatality last year.
Sco1by 3 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Superb scramble in the snow!
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βeta: Superb scramble in the snow!
Mark Wright 10 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gully start not recommended.
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βeta: Gully start not recommended.
Mark Wright 10 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gully start not recommended.
βeta?
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βeta: Gully start not recommended.
Tom Redwood 31 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Just left of the crux groove there is an entirely detached block that looks like a reasonable flake and due to its weight sounds ok at the bottom. Surprised it hasn't trundled already as it can be tipped with one hand. People were below us so had to leave it. It's about 1.3m tall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just left of the crux groove there is an entirely detached block that looks like a reasonable flake and due to its weight sounds ok at the bottom. Surprised it hasn't trundled already as it can be tipped with one hand. People were below us so had to leave it. It's about 1.3m tall.
Alan James - Rockfax 8 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: By tagging this on the end of the Bochlwyd Horseshoe you can make a neat double horseshoe by then descending the easy path down the east ridge of Gylder Fach and back down Cwm Tryfan.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: By tagging this on the end of the Bochlwyd Horseshoe you can make a neat double horseshoe by then descending the easy path down the east ridge of Gylder Fach and back down Cwm Tryfan.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Glyder Fach

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Voting
High 3S
Mid 3S
Low 3S
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Cwm Uchaf Circuit

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Crib Goch)

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